According to AI, sailing from Colombia to the ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao) is widely considered one of the most challenging passages in the Caribbean and among the top five most difficult in the world due to constant strong headwinds and rough seas.
With a bit of courage, plenty of planning, and of course “Fortitude”, we were excited for this next cruising adventure in the Caribbean Sea.
But let’s start at the beginning: We returned to Colombia to reunite with Fortitude X in October. After a very enjoyable summer in Germany visiting family and friends, we spent a month in Vancouver before exploring Bogota on our way back to Cartagena. The boat was in excellent shape, with no traces of negligence or minor catastrophes. After a week of cleaning, polishing, attaching sails and re–provisioning, we were almost ready to leave the safe harbour and aim for Santa Marta – our jump-off point for the ABC’s – almost.
La Candelaria, Bogota
La Candelaria, Bogota
Graffiti, Bogota
Catedral Primada de Colombia, Bogota
Zipaquira Salt Cathedral, Bogota
Zipaquira Salt Cathedral, Bogota
Medellin had been on our list of places to visit in Colombia for a long time. We booked a flight from Cartagena to explore the “City of Eternal Spring” for a few days and weren’t disappointed; Medellin is a captivating city with tempered climate, friendly people and a wide variety of flavourful culinary delights.
On route to Medellin
Library, Medellin
Guatape, 741 steps to the top of the rock
Colourful Guatape
Delicious local cuisine, Medellin
“Man on a Horse” by Fernando Botero, Medellin
Upon our return, we set sail for Santa Marta and left before daylight to make it to a safe anchorage in Punta Hermosa before crossing the wide mouth of the River Magdalena, near the City of Barranquilla the next morning. The murky, ash-coloured river water smashes into the blue waters of the Caribbean, carrying all sorts of debris, creating hazards for mariners. We were lucky, arriving in Santa Marta safe and sound.
We moored in the marina and started to explore the town while waiting for our next weather window to the ABC’s.
Santa Marta, Colombia’s oldest city, has so much potential but feels totally neglected, almost unspectacular. Minca, on the other hand, a small, lush mountain town in the Sierra Nevada foothills, near Santa Marta, presented itself as a hidden gem. We enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere with its coffee and cacao farms, waterfalls and rainforest for a day before starting to prep for our next trip.
Streets under water, Santa Marta
Marina Santa Marta
Jungle town of Minca
Minca
Our four-day journey to Aruba went as smoothly as it could be; we arrived in the dark and were boarded by the coast guard who accompanied us to an anchorage they seemed appropriate. If you like to be entertained and catered to, Aruba might be the place for you. After checking out the island by rental car, we both agreed that this isn’t for us. And so our journey continued after a couple of days. Our plan called for Bonaire – not because we wanted to visit the islands in alphabetical order – but because we thought it’s easier to sail the hard part first, passing Curacao, and then go back and wait. We were wrong!
Leaving Aruba for Bonaire challenged our patience. Going east against currents and winds was frustrating to the point where I was convinced that we were not moving at all, despite our best efforts. I recall coming up from a shift break, and I swear I saw the same refinery towers on shore I was watching three hours previously. This relatively short trip of 110 Nautical Miles took us three nights and two days, and was probably the most unpleasant leg of our cruising adventure so far; needless to say, that squalls up to 40 knots of winds didn’t help to ease the pain.
Aruba to Bonaire
After the storm
Bonaire made up for everything! Friendly check-in procedure, perfect mooring location, and pristine waters. From stepping off Fortitude X for a morning swim with sea turtles, to the three-minute dinghy ride into Kralendijk for shopping and ice cream, this was heaven.
Evening in Bonaire
Washington-Slagbaai National Park, Bonaire
Morning view, Bonaire
Salt Pyramides, Bonaire
One of the 1,100 donkeys on Bonaire
Iguana, Bonaire
Leisure time
Fortitude X shadowed by Dutch warship, Bonaire
Dinghy ride
We decided to hang out here a bit longer, not sailing to Curacao but still visiting the island- by plane. Nice colourful capital, Willemstad, was all decked out for Christmas and the lit-up Queen Emma Bridge, the swinging pontoon bridge connecting the Punda and Otrabanda area offered great views over the decorated city.
Graffiti, Curacao
Willemstad, Curacao
“Leaving on a Jet Plane …”
Chichi Dolls, Curacao
Christmas and New Year’s arrived and were celebrated quiet and peaceful back on Bonaire. We were going to midnight mess after an onboard meal, and we’re watching the spectacular fireworks show along the shores from the first-row seats in our cockpit. The new year would start with our longest sail so far: ABC Islands going northeast to the Virgin Islands!
2 Comments
Marcia Williams
Hello Stef and Torsten,
You have no idea how much I look forward to reading your blogs and looking at your pictures. Looking at your pictures, I think I am very sorry I missed Bonaire but not sorry I missed Aruba I think.
I hope you arrived in the Virgin Islands safe and sound. Looking forward to your next post.
Love from Canada
Marcia
Kathy Reeves
Thanks for sharing your great photos and stories.